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Archer 24v Mods


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#1 Delfino Ramirez Jr

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Posted 07 July 2006 - 11:19 PM

Hello everyone,

I am working on getting an archer system of my own and I have been following the posts about the archers and the 24v Mods. I have seen so far that it requires making a separate mount for the second battery.

I have run across an item called a V-Mount Hot Swap Adapter that attaches to the regular V-mount and allows both batteries to sit on the end. I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if it could be modified to provide the 24v.

Following is a picture and a link to B&H where I saw it.

Posted Image

http://www.bhphotovi...egoryNavigation

:ph34r:

Del
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#2 chris fawcett

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 11:25 AM

Hi Delfino,

Good to see you are up and running. Sweden was a blast, no?

That's a great bracket, and thanks for bringing it to the attention of the forum. It would be an excellent solution; however, the extra weight down there on the Archer battery bracket would require that more weight be added to the monitor bracket to enable the sled to be dynamically balanced. At a rough calculation you'd need to hang about 700g (a pound and a half) onto the back of the monitor to balance it out. Then you couldn't swivel the monitor without having to rebalance the sled, so you'd be better off adding 1,500g (3 pounds) to the bracket itself. Mmm.

Keep the ideas coming, people!

Chris
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#3 Eric Fletcher S.O.C.

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 12:46 PM

so you'd be better off adding 1,500g (3 pounds) to the bracket itself. Mmm.

Keep the ideas coming, people!



Seriously, What's the point? you are trying to fly a mass that the gimbal was not designed for, much less the rest of the rig.
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#4 chris fawcett

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 12:58 PM

What's the point?


Arri 235?
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#5 Mikko Wilson

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 01:09 PM

so you'd be better off adding 1,500g (3 pounds) to the bracket itself. Mmm.

Keep the ideas coming, people!



Seriously, What's the point? you are trying to fly a mass that the gimbal was not designed for, much less the rest of the rig.



That aditional mass would be required to attain DB.
As the monitor doesn't telescope, the stock Archer can only DB with one battery on the back of the base (on the normal rod mount).

- Mikko
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#6 Eric Fletcher S.O.C.

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 01:53 PM

Well, if you put the battery under the centerpost centerline you would add mass and not affect the DB.
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#7 Mikko Wilson

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Posted 11 July 2006 - 02:03 PM

Hence the "however..." from Chris, and the front of rod brackets that many people are working one.

Again, a nifty bracket pictured above, but not so handy on an Archer without adding extra weight to the front too.
- Allthough if you are allready flying Tx and Onboard-Rec down by the monitor, then this bracket may well work even in DB.

- Mikko
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#8 Lars Erik

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Posted 20 July 2006 - 05:05 PM

Weights added to the back of the monitor will make it difficult to get the monitor where you want it. Specially in low-mode. As said before, I've added weights to the front bracket and it's been a great solution for me. I think the 24v solution is in placing a 2nd battery between the low end of the rig and the battery rods. To me that's the only place it will work with DB.

Been doing a lot of Steadicam jobs lately, from 16mm to heavy video cams with heavy HD lenses and FF and matteboxes etc. And as Eric pointed out, there is a limit to the Archer, but it's greater than most think. I'm guessing it's in the whereabouts of 17-19 kilos. Then the rig will get harder to control. Did a SDX900 shoot with J11 lens, matte box, FF, theboxx.tv wireless, Archos and Antlers w/ the heaviest weights on. In addition I had my weights, 2kg, and Hytron 120 batteries, 2.5 kg. The whole rig weighed about 22.5 kilos. Subtract the weight of the Archer itself, 4 kilos, which leaves us with about 18-19 kilos. I'm guessing this is the max load of the Archer.

Haven't thought much about the 24v issue yet, as the work is just piling up. And I'm happy about that. :D But keep posting ideas. We need to get the Archer up to 24v. Don't want to be running around with a small back pack with a 24v battery in it on my back.

LE
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#9 chris fawcett

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Posted 21 July 2006 - 03:30 AM

Thanks Lars-Erik,

I reckon 19 kilos is max too. Good to know for sure.

Chris
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#10 Lars Erik

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 10:07 AM

Hey guys,

been talking to Marrell in the UK about their power converters. They say that a 12v systems, which is drawing power from a 13.8 battery, will be able to power a 435 and different 24v FF systems with a 14v-26v power converter. They also have 12v-24v power converters. Is this solution a good idea for getting the Archer into the 24v availability?

LE
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#11 Chris Konash

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 01:57 PM

Lars,

I did what you are trying to do, I bought the 14-26V converter from Marell. So far I have used it for an Arri SRIII camera and it worked fine. I have not had an opportunity to try it on any other cameras as of yet. The converter was a quick fix for me but I am still going to go ahead with a 24V mod to my sled. The people at Marell are very nice and willing to answer any questions you have.

The only problem we may have is that the 14V Batteries that will be converted to 26V may over draw the battery.
I use Anton Bauer Dionic 90's mounted to a hotswap mount that I have removed the 10amp fuse on the power tap off the top of the mount. I then bypass the internal power wiring in the post and just run a 4pin XLR up to the Marell converter then to the camera. So in theory I should be able to get 90WH out of each Dionic 90 giving me 180Watts at 14V's which should convert up to a little more than 300W at 26V's. I think there converter is rated at 280W's. So it "shouldn't" have a problem starting/running a camera that stays under 10amps @ 26V's.

Of course this is all on a good day, with the wind at your back, just before sundown!
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#12 Mike Marriage

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Posted 03 August 2006 - 02:41 PM

..I use Anton Bauer Dionic 90's mounted to a hotswap mount that I have removed the 10amp fuse on the power tap off the top of the mount. I then bypass the internal power wiring in the post and just run a 4pin XLR up to the Marell converter then to the camera. So in theory I should be able to get 90WH out of each Dionic 90 giving me 180Watts at 14V's which should convert up to a little more than 300W at 26V's. I think there converter is rated at 280W's. So it "shouldn't" have a problem starting/running a camera that stays under 10amps @ 26V's...


Hi Chris,

I'm not sure that your maths is quite right. Be careful not to confuse capacity (WH) with power output (W). Also, doubling the voltage will not double the power as the current would drop if the battery is at maximum discharge. You also need to factor in the converter efficiency.

Apologies if I miss read what you meant; I just don't want you to fry anything!

Mike
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#13 Erik Brul

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Posted 09 December 2006 - 08:24 AM

I wonder when Tiffen will decide to update the Archer from the Factory with switchable 12/24 volt ?
After some years they did decide to modify the Flyer with a 24 volt option + hd monitor on it.., or was this just to tease us to use/buy the Flyer24 with the Arri 235 ?

Erik
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#14 Lars Erik

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 02:15 AM

Getting my Archer system switched to 24v in the beginning of January. Hofmann of Sweden has made this possible. Will post pictures then. The second battery is based under the sled, as we've talked about earlier.

LE
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#15 Erwin Landau

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Posted 21 December 2006 - 03:54 AM

<<I wonder when Tiffen will decide to update the Archer from the Factory with switchable 12/24 volt ?>>

I went onto the Steadicam site. The Archer is under Professional Video rigs, it's very rare to encounter a 24 Volt Video Camera... But then again there is a Clipper 24... under the same Professional Video section... now I'm confused.

Somehow the EFP problematic in the early 90-ties is coming back to mind...


And... As I posted many times in the past: "Think ahead when you buy your first/new rig, will I be using 24 Volt? Then I should buy a 24 Volt capable set up..." or am I totally off here? Think ahead?


Erwin
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