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Ultra frameline and bubble vanished


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#1 joe mcnally

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 07:03 AM

Ladies and gentlemen,
just wondered if there was any simple reason why the frameline and bubble have dissapeared from my monitor.
Is there any internal battery or anything needs periodic replacement ?
Thanks for any help.
Joe McNally
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#2 Jerry Holway

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 09:20 AM

Ladies and gentlemen,
just wondered if there was any simple reason why the frameline and bubble have dissapeared from my monitor.
Is there any internal battery or anything needs periodic replacement ?
Thanks for any help.
Joe McNally

Did you try the dimmer controls? Since both the FL and the Bubble are on separate positions (11 o'clock and one o'clock) it seems unlikely this is the problem, but since the DA for the monitor is on the same set of boards, it is possible.

Also try the position controls for each FL and the bubble... it's possible the battery that stores the info in memory has died.


If that isn't the problem, you must take off the covers and check the connectors to the boards, and while you are at it, check the little battery under the boards.

You can also check with the factory for advice: 818 843 4600, ext 17/Kyle Young

Jerry Holway
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#3 joe mcnally

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Posted 03 November 2005 - 01:33 PM

Thankyou Jerry
my biggest suspicion is the small button battery. It reads 4.3 volts. I need to desolder it to get it out.
Would anybody know what voltage these batteries are before I get the iron out. I cannot see anything on the button battery housing except Japan 521.
I dont want to bother Kyle at the moment as he has been exceptionally helpful on another matter recently.
I have gently reseated any of the visible board connectors.
Thanks again Jerry
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#4 joe mcnally

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Posted 04 November 2005 - 12:47 PM

OK you guys you've had enough time the iron is coming out, standback as someone may get hurt.
If I havent posted again in 60minutes assume the worst.
Joe
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#5 Mikko Wilson

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Posted 04 November 2005 - 04:55 PM

4 hours...
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#6 joe mcnally

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Posted 05 November 2005 - 04:47 AM

Hi Mikko
well lots longer than 4 hours now but dont call the emergency services I am fine and the rig is recovering from the trauma.
The battery is gc5.5v1.0f japan 521
I think it was a red herring though and is not the cause of the problem.
The 5.5v battery I assume is for keeping the frameline and bubble settings when the 28volt battery is removed.
The symptons now are that when I switch the sled on the bubble and frameline are there. However when I try to adjust the framelines the dimmer/encoder only works one way so if you tried to adjust the horozontal bottom line then it will just go all the way to the bottom and off but not back up again. Similar for all other functions.
Are the encoders prone to failure ?
Anybody have a circuit diagram ?
Thanks for any help
Joe
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#7 JimBartell

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Posted 05 November 2005 - 11:05 AM

Hi Mikko
well lots longer than 4 hours now but dont call the emergency services I am fine and the rig is recovering from the trauma.
The battery is gc5.5v1.0f japan 521
I think it was a red herring though and is not the cause of the problem.
The 5.5v battery I assume is for keeping the frameline and bubble settings when the 28volt battery is removed.
The symptons now are that when I switch the sled on the bubble and frameline are there. However when I try to adjust the framelines the dimmer/encoder only works one way so if you tried to adjust the horozontal bottom line then it will just go all the way to the bottom and off but not back up again. Similar for all other functions.
Are the encoders prone to failure ?
Anybody have a circuit diagram ?
Thanks for any help
Joe

Joe,

That is not a battery! It is a 1.0F (that's right, 1 farad) supercapacitor. It stores enough charge to keep the CMOS counters alive for a few days when everything shuts down. You can buy them from Digi-Key. Go to www.digikey.com. Search for "1.0F capacitor". I believe it is part number P6981-ND.

I bellieve your problem is most likely either a faulty encoder or in the wiring between the encoder and the PC board.

Good luck. Gotta go catch a plane.

Jim "Visiting the ancestral homeland" Bartell
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#8 joe mcnally

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Posted 05 November 2005 - 02:25 PM

Dooooh,
well the penny has dropped ( I ll tell you the story behind this, unless somebody else would like to)
Of course, wish I'd paid attention at the electronics class in fact now wish Id gone to more than one class !
Thanks Jim it all makes some sense now.
Where is the ancestoral home ? Bartechcelona or maybe Irisland ?
If its anywhere in UK, Londonland give me a shout love to meet up. UK 07973 226532
Thanks for putting me out of my chin stroking.
Have a good break where ever it is
Cheers
Joe
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#9 joe mcnally

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:24 AM

It was the encoder that done it !
I have replaced the said encoder and all is working dandy.
Unfortunately the replacement encoders shaft is 1/2" too long. :(
Would anybody know if it is safe to take a hacksaw to it or is the encoder a delicate senstive thingy ?
My thoughts are to clamp the shaft in a vice and then gently saw the offending portion off.
My electronics book ends at potentiometers.
Maybe if I am good and I can be very good, the girls tell me (30 years ago) ;) Santa will bring me a more up to date electronics book.
thanks for any help or advise
Joe
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#10 RobVanGelder

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 07:45 AM

Encoders are in general very sensitive parts, though enclosed they can stand some abuse.
If you want to saw, I suggest to use a Dremel tool with a cutting blade and use very little force.

Be sure first that this encoder is hermetically sealed, or saw-dust will get in and ruin it.

No garantee from my side..... B)
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#11 joe mcnally

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Posted 30 November 2005 - 08:57 AM

Thanks Rob
perhaps I will leave it as is until I find the correct part then. Its no big problem sticking out a little.
Thanks for the help
Joe
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