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Prototype Follow Focus I'm working on


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#1 Dustin Heindl

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 03:56 AM

So, I cant say too much, but I showed some pictures of how you can set it up =)

 

It takes the place of any power plate and has 12v/24v out to power RED Alexa or any other cable I can make for said camera.

 

You can arrange it for single battery (see pics) or hotswap batteries for a more studio setup (see pics)

 

Any digital motors will work, and the performance is similar to a preston. Smooth, Fast, Quet. I really can't tell a difference, and I timed the speeds.

 

Aux power outs, and BNC Split option coming in next model.

 

Let me know if this link works to view images

 

https://drive.google...bms0RDhGelJ0MjQ

 

EDIT - Uploaded links of 3 main pics

 

Hotswap2.jpg
 
Singlebatt2.jpg
 
Singlebatt3.jpg

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#2 Grayson Austin

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 09:32 AM

Link didn't work.

 

Grayson Grant Austin, SOC


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#3 Victor Lazaro

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 10:46 AM

Nice idea! What about making a sandwich version that you would simply place between the camera's battery plate and the battery itself?


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#4 Jarrett P. Morgan

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 07:40 PM

Does it use the Preston HU?


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#5 Dustin Heindl

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Posted 13 December 2013 - 10:41 PM

It can actually use any handunit, Currently I'm using the Element Technica one.

I considered making it click onto the redmote back, and I can, however... you can simply hang it off the back using the top cheese plate of the camera.

See how the plate extends down to connect to the 15mm bridge, just connect that to the top of the camera instead.

What do you think though? Personally this allows for all options, and with rosettes you can go from any of those configurations in seconds!

Only downside to using the 2 AB Gold mounts is that it looks larger than it really is, but in the end, you are saving space by it being your source of power =)


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#6 Tom Hall

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Posted 08 January 2014 - 10:49 PM

What is the pin out of the motor connection? My girlfriend has an unmotorized beamsplitter and I want to put motors in it that behave the standard hedens/DM motors so I can drive it from a standard MDR.


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#7 Dustin Heindl

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 03:11 AM

It's the same as all digital motors, haden, preston etc. All the newer ones on the market


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#8 Tom Hall

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Posted 09 January 2014 - 11:32 AM

I mean where did you get the spec diagram, I have been looking myself. I'd rather not try and guess which one is motor power and which one is encoder power. I'd imagine the encoder wouldn't appreciate getting a full 14 volts.


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#9 Alan Rencher

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 12:40 AM

I mean where did you get the spec diagram, I have been looking myself. I'd rather not try and guess which one is motor power and which one is encoder power. I'd imagine the encoder wouldn't appreciate getting a full 14 volts.


https://store-2ab5d....ver Manual.pdf'> https://store-2ab5d.mybigcommerce.com/content/fSTOP%20V2-1%20BarTech%20B3A%20Receiver%20Manual.pdf
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#10 Peter Hoare

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Posted 10 January 2014 - 08:35 PM

Tom, 

 

Send me an email, I can give you the pinout details. pete@hocusproducts.com 

 

 

 

Pete. 

 


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#11 Ed Warner

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:31 AM

That's a mighty nice piece of kit you've got yourself there!

 

Thought I would confirm Dustin's comment regarding the motor pin outs i.e. Preston, Heden, Scorpio, ARRI CLM (most any digital motor using the 7pin 1B(size) Lemo). The standard pinout on these motors is:

 

1 - Motor +

2 - Motor -

3 - Encoder A

4 - +5V (Encoder Power)

5 - Gnd (Encoder Ground)

6 - Encoder B

7 - Motor ID

 

*In some oddball instances Encoder A & B may be inverted, but having them inverted wont damage the motor, just prevent it from running or the motor will just kind of spaz out. The inversion may be on the motor (though I cant even recall which if any do this), more comonly it's occuring at the motor controller. This seems to be outdated practice though, probably was meant to push cable sales. Most manufacturers of motor drivers have standardized now, usually on 7 or 14pin Lemo connections with 1 to 1 wiring, as to avoid confusion on set or damage to some pricey motors. That being said though, always verify your own systems wiring. These are rules of thumb that apply 99% of the time. That remaining 1% seems to be in cahoots with that jagoff Moore with his laws, always trying to keep a man down ;)


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#12 Ed Warner

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Posted 16 January 2014 - 08:42 AM

Oh it may be worth noting; if you have Cannon, Fujinon, Angeniuex etc ENG lenses, those motors are controlled all together differently (with 232 or 422 serial). The majority of them share the same 20pin Hirose connector (exception being older Fujinon ENG), but the pinout on each is different. If anyone needs help controlling these or for pinouts on them PM me.


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#13 Dustin Heindl

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Posted 17 January 2014 - 04:49 AM

^ This guy is the brains of the operation :P I'm just the tester, and the guy who demands things work a certian way regardless of physics and electronics laws... jk I try to be fair !

seriously though, he made the unit :P


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