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Drilling gimbal handle for Low mode bracket

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#1 Michael Wilson

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Posted 03 February 2012 - 11:52 PM

I have a low mode bracket for a pro arm. My mk-v gimbal handle doesn't have a hole in it to accept the pin to use the low mode bracket. Can I take it to a cnc guy to drill this? Should I take it to a cnc guy to drill this? Will I break anything?

Do you guys use your low mode brackets? or just flip the sled over?
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#2 Thomas K. Jensen

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 01:10 AM

Yes, you can drill a hole in your gimbal handle for the low mode bracket.
Jerry mentioned on the workshop, that if you have an older system (or in your case a system without the low mode hole)
you should just drill one.
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#3 Richard James Lewis

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 05:10 AM

I wouldn't drill anything. I'd be worried that you were weakening the handle if the hole wasn't drilled in the right place.
I had an mk-v gimbal for 4 years and never ever used a low mode bracket. You have enough clearance with a handle that long, so you aren't hitting the sled, so you do not need to invert the handle to remove the obstruction.
Just pop your bracket in upside down and use a post collar to secure it in the arm. This will give you a few inches lower, but by then you are probably all contorted trying to get your grip that low on the post comfortably. Plus most mk-vs had a 4 stage post, so you don really need to get your hand that uncomfortably low anyway.

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#4 Jerry Holway

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Posted 04 February 2012 - 09:06 AM

The reason to use a low mode bracket (F-bracket, J-bracket) is to place the working end of the arm back in the "gap" between the camera and battery - this is especially important when flying heavy cameras, with the gimbal close to the stage. If you don't, you can't make switches; the arm will hit the camera. And the camera will fly higher, so if you want to go lower...

Now for the drilling: It's important to not trust any sort of clamp to hold the gimbal handle to the inverted "arm post" of the F-bracket. Danger Will Robinson!

Don't worry about the hole and strength; just make the hole about 3/16th inch in diameter and use a #10 hardened screw (or a quick pin from McMaster Carr or other supplier). The hole must go all the way through so the pin is in what is called "double shear." It's much stronger that way.

A 1/8th inch diameter hole is fine as well, perhaps better for a 5/8ths post system.

I wouldn't drill it free-hand; and it will go better (more likely to be well centered) if you do it on a mill.

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