Jump to content



Photo

Video Link + Follow focus power supply


  • Please log in to reply
12 replies to this topic

#1 Edmond Fetue

Edmond Fetue

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 28 posts
  • Rio de Janeiro, Brasil

Posted 18 December 2011 - 06:02 PM

Hi there,

I will be working tomorrow with a Panasonic Af-100 with Bartech Follow focus and a video-link wireless system.

I have a steadicam Flyer, (first model). How can I supply power to both things at the time?

Thank you!
  • 0

#2 Edmond Fetue

Edmond Fetue

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 28 posts
  • Rio de Janeiro, Brasil

Posted 18 December 2011 - 06:18 PM

I have a lemo to xlr 4 pin cable
  • 0

#3 Brian Freesh

Brian Freesh

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 922 posts
  • Los Angeles, CA

Posted 18 December 2011 - 08:27 PM

You need a splitter of some kind, or a power output from one of the devices. The Bartech has a 2pin lemo you can power from. Not sure about the AF100 or the link. If you can't get the proper cable in time, you have to give up one of the devices.
  • 0

#4 Mark Schlicher

Mark Schlicher

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 776 posts
  • Nashville, TN

Posted 18 December 2011 - 09:16 PM

Do you know what cables will come with the Bartech you'll be using? You'll obviously need a XLR-to BFD lemo connector, to mate with your sled-to-XLR. Not a common Bartech cable...

I couldn't find any info on the "video-link" transmitter. What kind of connector? What voltage? You may be able to rig a separate 9V battery to power the transmitter, but who knows how long it might last...

If you have the Anton Bauer version of the Flyer, you could pull power from the P-tap on the battery paddle, and mount your video transmitter down low. Not ideal but may work. Obviously you'll need a p-tap to video transmitter cable.

Sounds like you didn't have a prep day. Unfortunate.

Good luck tomorrow, I hope it all works out okay for you.

In the long run, look into having a few custom cables made: for a Flyer I'd start with a Flyer 2-pin lemo to P-tap. Then get a P-tap to BFD, a P-tap multi (from Anton Bauer), and a 4ft p-tap extension cable. Then as you get new/different accessories, (LED on-camera light, etc.) make up P-tap power cables. This is probably the most cost-effective for a Flyer. Watch out for voltages, though. Some "12 volt" acessories will not work with the up-to-16 volts that pro batteries put out.
  • 0

#5 William Demeritt

William Demeritt

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 1057 posts
  • Los Angeles, CA

Posted 18 December 2011 - 09:39 PM

If its the 7ghz Link System, I believe they sometimes use an Anton Bauer battery onboard to power, since they're pretty power hungry.

You need to post more information, or get more information from the job, before we can really contribute something substantial.
  • 0

#6 Alan Rencher

Alan Rencher

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 1091 posts
  • Los Angeles

Posted 19 December 2011 - 12:09 AM

Hi there,

I will be working tomorrow with a Panasonic Af-100 with Bartech Follow focus and a video-link wireless system.

I have a steadicam Flyer, (first model). How can I supply power to both things at the time?

Thank you!


You need something like this:

Posted Image

This is a 3-pin Lemo to female P-Tap, and a male P-Tap to 4 female P-Tap. Let me know if you need to rent it.
  • 0

#7 Edmond Fetue

Edmond Fetue

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 28 posts
  • Rio de Janeiro, Brasil

Posted 20 December 2011 - 04:13 PM

Thank you guys!

I solved it by using an extra AAton battery supplying the Transvideo sender and the rig for the Bartech.

I already bought my P-Tap cable!

Thank you all once again!



...and Alan Rencher I really liked your solution! Where did you buy this from? Or was it self made?
  • 0

#8 Mark Schlicher

Mark Schlicher

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 776 posts
  • Nashville, TN

Posted 20 December 2011 - 09:15 PM

Edmond,

Alan's cables are what I was describing.

The P-tap multi is available from Anton-Bauer via B&H and other retailers.
The P-tap to Lemo is something that needs to be custom-fabricated by someone like Terry West (search the forum archives for his number).

Alan's version is three-pin Lemo to mate with his sled. You'll need to make sure you specify the first-generation Flyer's 2-pin Lemo when you order. Confusion is possible because the second generation Flyer LE went to a three-pin Lemo.
  • 0

#9 Edmond Fetue

Edmond Fetue

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 28 posts
  • Rio de Janeiro, Brasil

Posted 21 December 2011 - 06:04 PM

Thanks Mark!
  • 0

#10 Mark Schlicher

Mark Schlicher

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 776 posts
  • Nashville, TN

Posted 22 December 2011 - 10:07 AM

One other point of clarification....PRO sleds also have two-pin lemo power connections, but it's a different style of 2-pin lemo from the Flyer gen-1.
  • 0

#11 Charles Papert

Charles Papert

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 2224 posts
  • Los Angeles

Posted 22 December 2011 - 12:29 PM

I will throw in my two pfennigs on the p-tap splitter solution as I own four of them and have seen several of the ports go bad on them. They can be tempermental. I would perhaps recommend a sled to female p-tap cable that you can then plug in a standard four-way p-tap splitter rather than modify the four-way; down the road it will likely save you some money as you only have to replace the stock component rather than buy a new one and then have it modified as well. Adds a bit of bulk to the setup though.
  • 0

#12 Alec Jarnagin SOC

Alec Jarnagin SOC

    Advanced Member

  • Moderators
  • PipPipPip
  • 1800 posts
  • New York City, USA

Posted 22 December 2011 - 02:15 PM

"I will throw in my two pfennigs on the p-tap splitter solution as I own four of them and have seen several of the ports go bad on them. They can be tempermental. I would perhaps recommend a sled to female p-tap cable that you can then plug in a standard four-way p-tap splitter rather than modify the four-way; down the road it will likely save you some money as you only have to replace the stock component rather than buy a new one and then have it modified as well. Adds a bit of bulk to the setup though. "

Ditto. Also, I have both Camera Power and Vid/Power (PRO J-Box) to female P-taps that way I can better manage the power needs.
  • 0

#13 PeterAbraham

PeterAbraham

    Advanced Member

  • Sustaining Members
  • 902 posts
  • New York City

Posted 03 January 2012 - 12:42 PM

We could just replace the lenses with Lemos and voila !!!

:)

Ditto with Charles and Alec. Component failure is avoided at great cost and effort. As the late great Ted said, " Don't worry- 90% of the time, it's in the cable ". As long as you've got redundancy and have eliminated every potential component failure, you'll be good to go.

Where's that spare arm?
  • 0




PLC Electronics Solutions

BOXX

Engineered Cinema Solutions

IDX

rebotnix Technologies

Omnishot Systems

Paralinx LLC

Betz Tools for Stabilizers

Varizoom Follow Focus

Wireless Video Systems

PLC - Bartech

GPI Pro Systems

SkyDreams

Media Blackout - Custom Cables and AKS

Teradek

Boland Communications

Ritter Battery