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Cable help for wireless hdmi


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#1 Michael Wilson

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 07:49 PM

I'm thinking about purchasing the brite view wireless hdmi system. It is a consumer product with a dc out for power. Can anyone make me a cable so I can power this off the sled or the red camera aux port? Or point me in the direction to who could do this.

thanks
http://www.brite-vie.../air_synchd.php
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#2 William Demeritt

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 12:13 AM

Michael,

I just picked that exact box up a week ago, going to some testing with it later this week. Considering the specs, I think it has a lot of promise, but you'll need some additional pieces to make it work in our world. I've already got a Decimator2, so HD-SDI to HDMI isn't a problem. HDMI back to HD-SDI over BNC (since most field monitors don't have HDMI) is one thing, but the AJA HA5 should remedy that problem.

I'm hoping to get into Clairmont in the next few days and do some testing/playing around, I'll be sure to post my findings. Hopefully they'll have a RED I can toy around with...

As for powering the device from your sled, I have a spare AUX PWR cable (the 2-pin hermaphrodite LEMO cable) which I'm going to rewire personally. The device requires 5V @ 3amps, so I've got a 12/24v -> 5v transformer coming in a week or two that will support that kind of power. I plan to just solder it in line with the cable I already have, and then connecting the proper DC power plug on the other end.
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#3 Michael Wilson

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 11:07 AM

Cool. Keep me posted on your progress. I'm kind of in a time crunch so I'll probably just call terry west and see what he can do. I'm no good at electrical stuff.
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#4 William Demeritt

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Posted 16 March 2011 - 02:09 PM

Understandable. I probably could have saved some time by going to someone else here in LA, but half the fun is wiring this stuff myself! I'll post my findings in a few days.
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#5 Michael Wilson

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Posted 18 March 2011 - 11:21 PM

I tested this thing out today. It works great for line of sight but not indoors. It can go through two walls and thats it. The moment you go through the threshold of another room the signal drops off. Would work great if you have a directors monitor and they follow you but not for video village in my case. I'm working in a huge mansion on this next project and it would be a huge headache.
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#6 William Demeritt

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:56 AM

What was your test procedure? Did you test 720p and 1080i against 1080p? How did it perform in "WIDE" mode?

I'm hoping to do some tests with it still, I refuse to abandon hope!
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#7 Michael Wilson

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 07:27 AM

I don't think you can switch between 720p and 1080p or i manually. It will decide that for you. Wide mode is for being outside of the same room as the monitor. We hooked up the RED and just walked it around the house going from room to room. Can you think of anyway to boost the signal or get some sort of repeater going?
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#8 James Davis

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 08:52 AM

Cutting into the antenna feed and splicing in a feed to an connector for a high gain antenna might help some?
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#9 William Demeritt

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 01:36 PM

I don't think you can switch between 720p and 1080p or i manually. It will decide that for you. Wide mode is for being outside of the same room as the monitor. We hooked up the RED and just walked it around the house going from room to room. Can you think of anyway to boost the signal or get some sort of repeater going?


I meant use the 720p BNC port on the RED?

And yes, I think what James suggests is worth looking into. Once I do my initial tests, I want to crack open the TX box and determine the antenna's capabilities and opportunities for upgrade.
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#10 Lukas Franz

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Posted 19 March 2011 - 06:51 PM

Guys, this device is nothing for using on a professional set. And it's not seriously useable on steadicam. The biggest problem you might have is with the movement. This box is meant to stay on the bluray player in the rack. There won't be a decent stable signal while you move it. The other problem I see is the HDMI connection. It's the worst connection for the pro world in my opinion. HDMI has been developed for the consumer market, where people are able to connect their devices with just one cable, easy and with a great image and sound quality. Well, in the pro world you need a stable connection with decent connector (oh, how many 5Ds I've seen with a broken HDMI connector!). HDMI is very limited to cable length. Also, HDMI is difficult to use because the connected devices need to "talk" to each other. If that isn't possible: black screen! And also, because of this communication between source and display, there is a disruptive delay until you get an image on screen. Terrible! Well, there is only one solution: use HDSDI wherever possible! No HDMI crap! Please!

Okay guys, it's just my opinion. But believe me, you or the guys in the video village won't be happy if you come across with that cheap stuff ;-)

Best.
Lukas
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#11 Michael Wilson

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Posted 20 March 2011 - 12:15 AM

This device can most definitely be moved and still produce a stable picture. I agree it is not a pro solution but when this is less than ten percent the cost of the industry standard it is pretty attractive. If I were outdoors I would feel confident about its operation but inside with walls it will create tons of headaches.
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#12 William Demeritt

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 01:13 PM

My purpose in testing this device is to see if I can bring it up to a standard whereby I can use it as a solution on a pro set. If I can crack open a $200 plastic box, add a few additional wires and place it back into a box that I design, then why the objection? Keep in mind, while this device is consumer, the chip that makes it go boom is made by the same company who makes the heart of the CamWave: AMIMON.

I agree with you wholeheartedly about the HDMI connector, but that seems like a small hurdle to leap if it the result is a <$2,000 wireless HD solution. Like I said, Decimator 2 ($500) on my sled and an AJA HA-5 ($500) with the Air Sync HD ($200), and you've officially connected HD-SDI to HD-SDI over BNC. All that's left is building a container on both ends.

Michael has already tested it, and it sounds like movement isn't a problem. The problems to overcome currently are: 1) additional antenna, and 2) power amplification.

#1: Additional antenna.

Inside the AirSync HD, the PCB has 5 MC-card female connectors for antenna: 1 UPLINK and 4 additional receptacles. For this device, they only added an antenna to the UPLINK connector. Even the white papers indicate the other 4 antennas are supported to add signal strength, adding on the OFDM-MIMO device.

#2: power amplification. This, I'll start looking into after I handle the antenna issues.

Moral of the story: this box seems to be using a mere fraction of it's total potential.
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#13 Michael Wilson

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Posted 21 March 2011 - 05:46 PM

Awesome update Will.

I'm giving up on it now and perhaps will revisit in the future. I have an indie starting next week and I think it will cause more headaches than I would like. But it does have potential.

In the short term, another solution would be to take a hdmi extender via cat5 ethernet cable and put that with the receiver closer to the transmitter and run a 25-50 foot run of cat5 to video village.

Good luck Will and keep us posted.
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#14 Michael Hauer

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 02:00 PM

Is there any noticeable delay? Did I read that right 200 bucks and change?
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#15 William Demeritt

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Posted 22 March 2011 - 03:37 PM

Michael: it's below 1ms delay. I got mine for $220 on Amazon.
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