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URGENT! need Archer1 second battery brckt to hire/borrow


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#1 James Davis

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 07:55 AM

Hey Guys,

HoareMoore Archer1 battery bracket:

http://www.hocusprod...2&products_id=4

So.... I have my first Red Job on steadicam this weekend, and if possible it would be awesome to borrow one of these brackets so I don't have to power the camera down everytime I swap batteries, otherwise its a major pain in the backside, seeing as we are on a mega tight schedule, every minute counts, and I don't think there is anyway I can get one made in time seeing as they have a 3 week leadtime!
I have learnt my lesson and will be buying one soon after this job, but I would really really appreciate if someone could help me out here guys, thanks in advance for your understanding.

P.S. I am happy to pay a small rental fee if need be, or buy you a few beers, would be good to hangout with some fellow operators, I am based in London, but pretty much prepared to travel wherever around the SouthEast to pick up one of these for the weekend, thanks!

James Davis
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#2 Brian Freesh

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 01:36 PM

seeing as we are on a mega tight schedule, every minute counts,


They shouldn't be using a Red One then!

Seriously though. I hope you are able to find your hot swap solution. If you are not able though, it's relatively simple to keep an eye on the battery meter and change it judiciously between set-ups, while someone is in make-up, at lunch, if/when something else fails, etc... Change it when it's half full if you see a good opportunity. Most of the time I find that the 100 seconds I need is probably far less than the time I have if I pay attention. If I'm standing around talking, it's a good time to change something.

Good luck!
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#3 richard bellon

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Posted 31 January 2011 - 02:14 PM

seeing as we are on a mega tight schedule, every minute counts,


Change it when it's half full if you see a good opportunity. Most of the time I find that the 100 seconds I need is probably far less than the time I have if I pay attention. If I'm standing around talking, it's a good time to change something.

Good luck!


I second that

Edited by richard bellon, 31 January 2011 - 02:15 PM.

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#4 Ken Nguyen

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 02:31 AM

Hi James,
That bracket just helps to add more or an addition power to the sled.
It also adds more weight to the bottom of the sled for better balancing.

It is not the hot swap adapter.
What you asked for is the hot swap adapter so you can change the battery without power off the Red.
This is what you need: http://www.bebob-rou...hp?product=6608

Cheers,
Ken Nguyen.
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#5 Matteo Quagliano

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 04:44 AM

Hi gents,

Ken is right, unless you're able to parallel the batteries no hot-swap available there... but good for balancing and power other stuff. I do use it all the time on my Archer 1. Based in Italy I can't help you on this.
Since I'm here I suggest you another thing: check the base plate on which you'll mount the RED, if it's the RED proprietary it's a total piece of crap, don't use it trust me, it shakes... find an Element Techinka plate for the RED (rock solid) and there you go smooth as butter.

my best

maqu
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#6 James Davis

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Posted 01 February 2011 - 06:03 AM

Hi Mateo,

Thanks for that tip mate, good to know, waiting to hear on the kitlist today, guess I will just have to pick my moments as to when I can change batteries, well should be fun, i'll let you guys know how I get on :=)
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#7 James Davis

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 11:57 AM

Hi gents,

Ken is right, unless you're able to parallel the batteries no hot-swap available there... but good for balancing and power other stuff. I do use it all the time on my Archer 1. Based in Italy I can't help you on this.
Since I'm here I suggest you another thing: check the base plate on which you'll mount the RED, if it's the RED proprietary it's a total piece of crap, don't use it trust me, it shakes... find an Element Techinka plate for the RED (rock solid) and there you go smooth as butter.my best

maqu


Checked with the DIT, included in the kit already, element technicak bridge plate, and 12 inch arri base plate, happy days :)
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#8 Richard James Lewis

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Posted 02 February 2011 - 04:02 PM

There is no good reason to be using a bridge plate and base plate with this camera, or any camera. Such a big amount of unnecessary additional weight. Go straight into the bottom of the camera, use rods from your dovetail plate to mount motors, or failing that a slightly longer rod on the top and mount the motor from that downwards. Less weight up top, the less you'll need down bottom. The Archer was my first rig back in the day, and at first before i had a plate made up I used to tape a battery onto the rods..

Have fun.
Rick.
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#9 Matteo Quagliano

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 04:44 AM

You're right Richard... The problem is that Archer plate does not have rods mount. A good point is to go with top rods but it's not always possible. Sometimes you've too much things on top to have space for the motor (if you have 2 no way)... LCD monitor, downconverter, txrx, battery, hard drive, motor receiver, etc etc etc... Anyway my point is to stay away from RED base plate, total crap...

you're welcome James... let us know how things went...

my best
maqu
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#10 James Davis

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:03 AM

There is no good reason to be using a bridge plate and base plate with this camera, or any camera. Such a big amount of unnecessary additional weight. Go straight into the bottom of the camera, use rods from your dovetail plate to mount motors, or failing that a slightly longer rod on the top and mount the motor from that downwards. Less weight up top, the less you'll need down bottom. The Archer was my first rig back in the day, and at first before i had a plate made up I used to tape a battery onto the rods..

Have fun.
Rick.


Hi Rick,

Just checked out your website, and remembered we met briefly at the London Steadicam Tango Demo, it's a small world eh :)
If I had an XCS dovetail plate this is something I would definitely be doing, but I am only in posession of the standard archer dovetail at present so have to work with what I got, all advice duely noted though, thanks for taking the time out to respond.

Regards

James
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#11 Matteo Quagliano

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 05:27 AM

James... my first RED job got a bit messed up by this awful plate (and it was with a very famous italian DP... F£$%) so I strongly recommend you don't use it. It really shakes left to right, it' s unbelievable but it's true. I did read something about that here on the forum but unfortunately it was too late... So now I'm quite obsessed by that plate :)

my best
maqu

p.s. actually you can see that shots on the first 30/40 secs on my reel (following a person on the street and up to a stair (2 minute takes, 18 takes, fiiiiuuuuuuu)... I got crazy meanwhile shooting and after when I realize why I got furious...
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#12 Richard James Lewis

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 06:48 AM

Perseverance... I'd say definitely try the longer 19mm top bar approach before going for the bridge plate and base plate, I can't see any real reason why you would have issues with this,.. and lots of the time you will see longer carbon fibre bars as an option too. When i was working with it I had my Archer dovetails drilled and tapped to accept focus / iris rods. If you need any iris rods then I have a few bought for the old plates that I no longer need, you just need to have a machinist drill a few holes.

Rick.

You're right Richard... The problem is that Archer plate does not have rods mount. A good point is to go with top rods but it's not always possible. Sometimes you've too much things on top to have space for the motor (if you have 2 no way)... LCD monitor, downconverter, txrx, battery, hard drive, motor receiver, etc etc etc... Anyway my point is to stay away from RED base plate, total crap...

you're welcome James... let us know how things went...

my best
maqu


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#13 Matteo Quagliano

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 07:19 AM

I did use the carbon fiber rods and they're good. I would like to know how you fix rods on archer plate. Anyway, a good reason is a mattebox with filters, Dps and Acs don't like to flip it around or to put filters from the bottom. Or at least that was my case.... unless you always go for a cilp on mattebox but I think you never know and you should be prepared for the worst (as always happen :) )

maqu
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#14 Richard James Lewis

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 07:46 AM

Well it kind of gets to the point where you and the focus puller aren't doing your job properly if you don't order the right kit. Now sure times will crop up where a mistake has happened, but James seems to have a heads up on this one, so making sure there is an LMB on the list should be a priority. You shouldn't really be flying a production matte box if you can help it.

Without some special engineering you can only fix an iris rod or two. They won't be spaced to accommodate anything, but will be there to affix motors onto. Look at the pro style iris rods, they have two holes in them, have those holes drilled and threaded into your dovetail plate, then screw on the rod. Don't the newer archer dovetail plates come with a new style hole pattern layout that has the rod holes drilled already? I thought I saw this, but could be mistaken, maybe consult Tiffen,

Rick :)



I did use the carbon fiber rods and they're good. I would like to know how you fix rods on archer plate. Anyway, a good reason is a mattebox with filters, Dps and Acs don't like to flip around or to put filters from the bottom. Or at least that was my case.... unless you always go for a cilp on mattebox but I think you never know and you should be prepared for the worst (as always happen :) )

maqu


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#15 Matteo Quagliano

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Posted 03 February 2011 - 08:24 AM

Thanks for the clarification Richard. I'll see what I can do with my plate.

As for the LMB (for sure a priority in James's order kit), sometimes you have to deal with what you have and my point was to avoid the RED plate. That's it.


(anyway... I've been told a couple of times we have to keep the heavy one... It can happen and if it does then you better go with element technika (or similar) rather then keeping the RED plate... my point was a suggestion out of James' request, I just did want to enlight a situation in which I found myself while flying a RED set up and in which I felt a big pain in the ass for having that awful plate... then LMB, cards, carbon fiber rods, etc etc all goodies to help you out but reality can bite :).. just be prepared...)

maqu
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