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Canon 5D HDMI connection to Pilot


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#1 Timothy Palmer-Benson

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Posted 08 August 2010 - 07:50 PM

Pardon my ignorance, but how do I connect the Canon 5D to the Pilot's monitor? I know there is an HDMI output from the Canon which produces a non HD output but I don't see how to make the connection with my existing cables. I looked on line and didn't find the cable.
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#2 Tom Wills

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Posted 08 August 2010 - 07:57 PM

The 5D should have come with a cable that connects to a headphone-looking jack, with 4 connectors instead of 3. It then splits it out into the usual Red, White, and Yellow RCAs. Just hook up the yellow RCA to the Pilot's RCA input, and you're good to go. Since the 5D can't output HD while recording, and the Steadicam's monitor isn't HD, there's no point in using HDMI anyways. If you're missing that cable, you could probably find one at an electronics store.
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#3 Timothy Palmer-Benson

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Posted 09 August 2010 - 10:50 PM

The 5D should have come with a cable that connects to a headphone-looking jack, with 4 connectors instead of 3. It then splits it out into the usual Red, White, and Yellow RCAs. Just hook up the yellow RCA to the Pilot's RCA input, and you're good to go. Since the 5D can't output HD while recording, and the Steadicam's monitor isn't HD, there's no point in using HDMI anyways. If you're missing that cable, you could probably find one at an electronics store.

Yes, I have the cable but of course it is too long and I only need one of the cables. What do people do about this? I called B&H to see if they have short mini video cable but no, it doesn't exist. So do people just snip the unused cables and then roll the video one into a bundle and tuck in somewhere? Or, should I get out my soldering iron, snip the cable to a shorter length and solder on a new RCA?
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#4 Brandon Thompson

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Posted 10 August 2010 - 01:11 AM

I don't understand why there is a problem with the other connectors/extra cable. Just bundle it all up. No need to cut off the other connectors. Just plug the yellow connector into the top stage and there you go. I just flew the 7d on my flyer and had no problems.
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#5 Timothy Palmer-Benson

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:43 AM

It is not really a problem...just neat and professional looking :)
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#6 Joe Lawry

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Posted 11 August 2010 - 11:58 PM

It is not really a problem...just neat and professional looking :)



haha its a steadicam.. looking neat isnt important.. neat looking shots are..

Yea i just gaff my CVBS cable for my 7D up to the top stage.
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#7 Bryan Hayes

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Posted 12 August 2010 - 12:32 AM

Yeah, just bundle the proprietary cable up. Tape it, tuck it, braid it... it doesn't matter. I don't know about the 5D, but the 7D has a reasonably short cable, and I in fact would have welcomed the extra weight no matter where I got it. I flew a 7D last week with the red rock package/weight plates and still would have liked more weight on it.
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#8 Robert McGowan

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Posted 14 August 2010 - 02:08 PM

Yeah, just bundle the proprietary cable up. Tape it, tuck it, braid it... it doesn't matter. I don't know about the 5D, but the 7D has a reasonably short cable, and I in fact would have welcomed the extra weight no matter where I got it. I flew a 7D last week with the red rock package/weight plates and still would have liked more weight on it.



I'm attempting to fly a 7D on a Pilot (16-35mm lens for now). I hooked up the monitor with the cable that came with the 7D and it does work but it turns off the camera's lcd screen. Is there anyway around this or would I have to set my exposure, iso etc and then plug the cable back in every time? I'm also looking for ideas to add more weight as I feel it would be easier to fly. I've already attached 4 merlin weigths to both sides of the top and one on each side at the bottom. I'm a newbie so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks.
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#9 Jonathan Parris

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Posted 15 August 2010 - 08:50 PM

I'm attempting to fly a 7D on a Pilot (16-35mm lens for now). I hooked up the monitor with the cable that came with the 7D and it does work but it turns off the camera's lcd screen. Is there anyway around this or would I have to set my exposure, iso etc and then plug the cable back in every time? I'm also looking for ideas to add more weight as I feel it would be easier to fly. I've already attached 4 merlin weigths to both sides of the top and one on each side at the bottom. I'm a newbie so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks.


I fly the T2i a lot on my Flyer, and assuming the lcd display is set up the same as the 7D, all of your on-screen settings will show up on the monitor as well. As far as I have found, there is no way to have both the camera lcd and the monitor showing the image at the same time. But that would seem like a welcome issue, because conserving that camera battery in any way possible is a help.

The weight is an issue with me to, and I'm down to just machining a steel cage like this
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#10 Mark Schlicher

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Posted 16 August 2010 - 10:46 AM

Contact Janice Arthur through the board, she has weight plates and cages in various wieghts, at very reasonable prices.
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#11 Bryan Hayes

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 06:52 PM

Yeah, just bundle the proprietary cable up. Tape it, tuck it, braid it... it doesn't matter. I don't know about the 5D, but the 7D has a reasonably short cable, and I in fact would have welcomed the extra weight no matter where I got it. I flew a 7D last week with the red rock package/weight plates and still would have liked more weight on it.



I'm attempting to fly a 7D on a Pilot (16-35mm lens for now). I hooked up the monitor with the cable that came with the 7D and it does work but it turns off the camera's lcd screen. Is there anyway around this or would I have to set my exposure, iso etc and then plug the cable back in every time? I'm also looking for ideas to add more weight as I feel it would be easier to fly. I've already attached 4 merlin weigths to both sides of the top and one on each side at the bottom. I'm a newbie so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. Thanks.


Between set ups, we had to unplug the proprietary cable, and plug the HDMI into the HD monitor reserved for studio-mode every time the DP wanted to check exposure. I have a Pro SD monitor, so using that for any reference other than for my framing would be pretty silly. I actually used the HD monitor (disconnected) on an israeli arm off the tail end of the carbon fiber rods (included in the RedRock package) to add more aft weight. It was a funny looking set up, with extra brackets and handles included, but it worked for the shot and added much welcomed weight. That's what ultimately counts.
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#12 Brian Freesh

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 07:28 PM

My DPs usually look at the histogram instead of worrying about monitors (that are probably not accurate anyway), but a real DP will just show up with a damn light meter.
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#13 Bryant Swanstrom

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 03:09 PM

My DPs usually look at the histogram instead of worrying about monitors (that are probably not accurate anyway), but a real DP will just show up with a damn light meter.


I light to a meter and then use histogram to make sure everything is within range. Mostly because that is faster than making sure the light meter and camera actually match up perfectly.
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#14 Darren Levine

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 11:29 PM

Hey Tim, if the long cable continues to be a bother, you can grab one of these: http://www.radioshac...oductId=2102693

Then use whatever rca cable you like, though i'd go to ratshack with your camera and check to make sure it works before you buy it, you might need the stereo version. i recall trying it awhiles back and if memory serves, the linked adapter is the one. also you can find 1/8 to rca single cables. a trip to the shack can tidy things up nicely :)
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#15 Jonathan Parris

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Posted 24 September 2010 - 08:56 PM

Hey Tim, if the long cable continues to be a bother, you can grab one of these: http://www.radioshac...oductId=2102693

Then use whatever rca cable you like, though i'd go to ratshack with your camera and check to make sure it works before you buy it, you might need the stereo version. i recall trying it awhiles back and if memory serves, the linked adapter is the one. also you can find 1/8 to rca single cables. a trip to the shack can tidy things up nicely :)


That won't work with the 5D. It uses the same cable my T2i has, which has the same plug as a mini USB. If you can figure out which two pins are for video, you should in theory be able to cut apart a cheap mini USB cable and put a BNC connector (or RCA) on the other end of it. It would cost less than cutting up one of those A/V cables and look more professional too. I've not tried this yet, but am now seriously considering it, just to make the spaghetti on top of my rig a little easier to deal with.
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