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panavised F35


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#1 Jens Piotrowski SOC

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Posted 17 September 2009 - 11:23 PM

Hi,

does anybody know what the connector for the start/stop looks like on the PANAVISED Sony F35?

3-pin fisher or 10-pin lemo?

Jens
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#2 Matt Petrosky

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 06:42 AM

3-pin fisher or 10-pin lemo?


Doubt it. If I remember correctly is the same deal as the Genesis, some crazy 10 or 12 pin in a 1B Lemo.
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#3 Chris Konash

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Posted 22 September 2009 - 03:24 PM

Start/Stop on the Panavised F35 is a 3 Pin Fischer, Arri RS connector. Same as a 235, 435, 535.
However, there have been reports that when operating in 12Volts only mode for steadicam, the 24Volt port run/stop function is disabled.
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#4 Brian Freesh

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Posted 22 September 2009 - 09:36 PM

I hesitated to respond because I don't know what modifications Panavision has done to the camera, and so I still lay that out there as a disclaimer.

That said, a factory F35 will naturally not provide power through the 24v 3 pin fischer when the camera is supplied only 12v. But the remote start function still works, as it is not related to the camera power. Also, it should be noted that there is really no such thing as a 24v "mode" for that camera. It's a 12v system, straight up. When you supply 24v the only thing that gets 24v is the 3 pin fischer connector. Everything else gets 12v.

The F35 does not (or at least did not, maybe they changed for all I know) come with a 12 pin Hirose port like the F23 did, but it can be added. If Panavision has done this, that is another way to get remote start.

Brian |-)~
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#5 Jens Piotrowski SOC

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Posted 22 September 2009 - 10:18 PM

update: panavised F35 uses the 3-pin fisher (arri) connector. just used it today.
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#6 Nicholas Davidoff

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 06:51 AM

Sorry to resurrect this thread, but I need a bit of clarification regarding an F35 power cable for Pro Sled. The F35 in question is coming from Camera House, NOT PV modified. Since F35 is a 12v camera, why would you require a "Y" cable for a Pro sled? Is this because it's such a power hog like the Genesis, you get more amps out of 2 separate lines? What if you run power from a single 12v port with 2 batteries in parallel? Voltage loss? I have an F35 job coming up and would like to figure the best power cable solution.

Something else I just thought of. Since Genesis and F35/F23 are the same connector. Can you make a "Y" cable that will be universal for all 3? 12v and 24v???

Thanks for your help,

~ Nick
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#7 Lawrence Karman

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Posted 20 January 2010 - 01:26 PM

Iggy, here is what I think I know: The F23/35 is a 12v camera, as you stated. The Genesis is also basically a 12v camera but Panavision pushes 24v for their accessories in through 2 pins on the large 8-pin Lemo and special batteries that provide dual voltage. They will run off just one battery and power port on the PRO, but especially with the recorder on, not very long. Not sure which PRO rig you a running but if it is the newer battery cage 2 then without a special jumper on the front only 1 battery runs the camera in 12v mode. The y-cable brings the Aux battery into play and now you can push more amps up the post through more wires. If I remember correctly the older battery cage allowed you to choose between parallel and series in 12v mode so you could bring a second 12v battery to the camera power service. Still better to use a Y-cable and more wires up the post because those 1B connectors are under-rated for the amperage those cameras draw. Hope this helps.
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#8 Nicholas Davidoff

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 05:09 AM

Iggy, here is what I think I know: The F23/35 is a 12v camera, as you stated. The Genesis is also basically a 12v camera but Panavision pushes 24v for their accessories in through 2 pins on the large 8-pin Lemo and special batteries that provide dual voltage. They will run off just one battery and power port on the PRO, but especially with the recorder on, not very long. Not sure which PRO rig you a running but if it is the newer battery cage 2 then without a special jumper on the front only 1 battery runs the camera in 12v mode. The y-cable brings the Aux battery into play and now you can push more amps up the post through more wires. If I remember correctly the older battery cage allowed you to choose between parallel and series in 12v mode so you could bring a second 12v battery to the camera power service. Still better to use a Y-cable and more wires up the post because those 1B connectors are under-rated for the amperage those cameras draw. Hope this helps.


Thanks Doc, very helpful. Definitely makes sense to have a Y cable to carry more current up the post. Even if you decide to use a single 12v port, you still have both options. I have a modified GPI/MK-V hybrid and I do have an extra 12volt AUX port.

I just realized this is a thread about a panavized F35 cable, whereas the F35 I'm using will be Sony stock. Nevertheless, the same answer applies. So basically, you can use the same cable to power a panavized F35 and Genesis. But obviously you can't use the same cable for a Genesis and a stock F35.

Thanks
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#9 Iain Baird

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 10:39 AM

Nick,
I'm not sure how your MK-V/GPI combo has been modified but just in case you're not already aware - stock MK-V/GPI topstages have the extra 12V plug but it is not a separate power supply running from the AUX batt, it's just a split of the CAM power supply.
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#10 Lawrence Karman

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 11:16 AM

I believe any stock F35 has the same power plug as the Genesis.
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#11 Eric Fletcher S.O.C.

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 12:53 PM

Nick,
I'm not sure how your MK-V/GPI combo has been modified but just in case you're not already aware - stock MK-V/GPI topstages have the extra 12V plug but it is not a separate power supply running from the AUX batt, it's just a split of the CAM power supply.



Add to that fact that it's 22ga wire up post and you have a rig that can't power the F23/35 Genocide.
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#12 Jens Piotrowski SOC

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 01:06 PM

yes, same power connector on F23, F35 and Genesis, panavised or not
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#13 MarkKaravite

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 12:32 AM

Eric brings up an important point about the draw of these cameras. If your post does not have the proper gauge cable for power, then you risk the chance of burning up your post cable. The reason for a Y power cable, in addition to drawing from 2 batteries, is that the PRO lemos are rated at 7 amps, and the camera with a SRW-1 recorder will draw around 11 amps while running.

If you have a PRO, then the Y cable pulls from both the camera power and the aux power, therefore tapping 2 batteries. My rig has a PRO topstage, XCS post & MK-V Nexus battery base. Unfortunately, the Nexus base doesn't feed the aux power on my PRO topstage (even though Howard assured me the Nexus was completely PRO compatible, but that's another story), so my F23/F35?Genesis power cables Y into 2 camera power outputs from my PRO topstage. The Nexus base draws equally from all 3 batteries, so I did get good run times with 3 Powercubes on board.

Some other stuff you'll need:

1) Have the rental house provide batteries for you. Why kill thousands of dollars of your own batteries. I did a F23 feature last year that used The Camera House, and they ended up buying 8 Powercubes for our shoot. See if they still have them. Dionic HC's are a better choice for a PRO base, since it's harder to get a V mount. I don't like using the adapters, as they rattle.

2) Acquire at least 2 sets of lightweight 4:4:4 jumper cables. You will most likely want to run the camera split whenever you can. When we worked with The Camera House gear, they were completely tape free, so no SRW-1 recorder. That solves a lot of power and weight problems for Steadicam, but makes running out and shooting a 2nd unit establishing shot a pain. Also, see if you can get the OB-1 for Steadicam. You'll love it. Get 2 OB-1's, and you can cover Steadicam and 2nd unit at the same time.

3) Check which viewfinders they have with their cameras. The newest Sony viewfinders are OK. The previous version (the one with the flip out LCD option) are horrible. The Camera House didn't have any viewfinder extension brackets, as of summer 2009, so check on that as well.
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#14 Nicholas Davidoff

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 05:34 AM

Thank you gentlemen for all the great info.

I am well aware of the wiring limitations of the MK-V. I have Pro bottom with MK-V post and topstage. My post cable has been rewired to supply a separate 12v power run to the AR port on the topstage. I've also switched the AR port to a 3 pin Lemo Aux output to reflect the Pro. So I essentially have two 3 pin Lemos feeding 12volts each off separate batts on separate cable runs. This was actually a very simple wiring job that only involved re-soldering a single lead on the bottom end of the MK-V post cable. In addition to switching out the plug on the topstage.

I'm also in the process of upgrading my sled to HD with higher gauge wiring up the post and throughout the J-boxes. If any of this ever fails me on set, I have a backup external dual 12v 14 gauge power cable that runs from my AB p-taps directly to the camera. So I like to think that I've got my bases covered. We'll see...

A brief update: We're now shooting on F23's out of Clairmont camera. I do have a couple of questions, but since this is a discussion about panavized run cables, I'll continue my thread at a more appropriate place, like here at Mark Karavite's great report on working with the F23 --

http://www.steadicam...h...hl=f23&st=0
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#15 Eric Fletcher S.O.C.

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Posted 30 January 2010 - 02:42 PM

Thank you gentlemen for all the great info.

I am well aware of the wiring limitations of the MK-V. I have Pro bottom with MK-V post and topstage. My post cable has been rewired to supply a separate 12v power run to the AR port on the topstage. I've also switched the AR port to a 3 pin Lemo Aux output to reflect the Pro. So I essentially have two 3 pin Lemos feeding 12volts each off separate batts on separate cable runs. This was actually a very simple wiring job that only involved re-soldering a single lead on the bottom end of the MK-V post cable. In addition to switching out the plug on the topstage.

I'm also in the process of upgrading my sled to HD with higher gauge wiring up the post and throughout the J-boxes. If any of this ever fails me on set, I have a backup external dual 12v 14 gauge power cable that runs from my AB p-taps directly to the camera. So I like to think that I've got my bases covered. We'll see...

A brief update: We're now shooting on F23's out of Clairmont camera. I do have a couple of questions, but since this is a discussion about panavized run cables, I'll continue my thread at a more appropriate place, like here at Mark Karavite's great report on working with the F23 --

http://www.steadicam...h...hl=f23&st=0



Rewire the post all you like you're not getting away from the 22AWG wire in that post. See the rest of my response over in the other thread
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